Leash Reactivity

This information is for leash reactivity, not aggressive behaviour to other dogs. Please contact a dog trainer for help with training.

This is a complex subject, and in order to train we must understand the reason why this behaviour has grown. It is generally a combination of:

• Inadequate puppy socialisation

• Previous negative experience

• Genetic predisposition for aggression

• Observation of other dogs

• Over-excitability/arousal

• Frustration/stress

• Unintentionally trained by owner

Leash reactivity generally has little to do with fear aggression, but overtime it can morph into more aggressive behaviour as a way for the dog to cope. Let’s explain the above reasons in more detail.

Inadequate puppy socialisation

Socialisation is puppies learning to be comfortable in new and varied environments, with dogs, people and other animals; it is not about playing with other dogs. The socialisation period ends about 14 weeks, meaning if puppies have not been taught to be calm and accepting in a range of environments with a range of stimulus, then they are more likely to be worried when encountering them in the future. Adequate socialisation can be difficult to achieve in a small time frame, making the first encounter the dog has with an unfamiliar environment would be on the lead, when they are ‘out and about’.

Previous negative experience

A lead can be a tool to keep your dog safe and close to you, but if a situation arises and your dog tries to escape, fear can escalate very quickly leaving a bigger negative imprint as they are trapped by the lead. Fear is what keeps us safe, so next time they will be in the lookout for that situation and react before it occurs again to protect themselves.

Genetic predisposition for aggression

Genetics play a major role in personality; it is why dogs were breed for reason from bullfighting to retrieving. Some breeds or personality are quick to a reaction when they feel uncomfortable. This is why some breeds may bark more or seem ‘more aggressive’.

Observation of other dogs

Just like us, dogs learn from observation, so if you have one dog that barks for food then the other dog will try that. The same occurs with pulling on the lead, barking at other dogs, becoming ‘heightened’ and reactive on walks.

Over-excitability/arousal

This one is the most common. If you hear yourself saying ‘he only wants play, once he meets you his fine’, this is your dog. This tends to occur when they are puppies, they see people or other dogs and are excited then as they are young and untrained we let them greet the object, reinforcing that excitable behaviour. Hyper arousal can occur when we decide to hold the dog back for a short period of time, then ‘give-in’, increase the intensity of the behaviour. Dogs can become aroused or heightened when they see a target at a distance, then when they finally get to greet the target, rational behaviour is beyond limits as they have become over stimulated.

Frustration/stress

Dogs encounter many things on a walk, they may be busy sniffing and we are dragging them away. They want to go somewhere so they pull and drag us. It becomes a battle of pulling to get further creating frustration making each person or dog they meet more intense and stressful.

Unintentionally trained by owner

Through every interaction your dog is learning; if they pull and you advance further, you are training your dog to pull. If they are excitable and jumpy when they greet someone or another dog, they are learning that this behaviour is what gets them that outcome they want.

Off Leash

You dog may be great with other dogs off leash, which is great. When dogs are off leash they can control their distance from other dogs by moving away, which is the total opposite of what a leash does. The natural greeting of a dog tends is not face to face, it is side to side or in an arc involving genital or bum sniffing (totally normal for dogs!) Off leash allows for natural greetings with space to get away.

Training/Management/Control

Each situation is different and it takes time and practice in learning about training, dog behaviour and body language which is the essence to managing any problem. Below is a guide of what you can do to help the situation and if in doubt always contact Hunter Valley Dog Training and Behaviour for help!

Avoid - Avoiding the situation before it occurs can be a management strategy for some people and it defiantly helps not to escalate a problem. The problem will always be there but if avoiding it properly then it shouldn’t worsen. This can be difficult, if you are planning to cross the road or change direction it has to be before the dog has alerted itself to the object.

Pick the right tools - If you have a retractable leash do not use it. You cannot be in a position to train or control interactions if the dog sees the trigger before you do. If you have a bungee leash, it is probably encouraging pulling for the dog. Other walking options can include head leaders, front walking harnesses, general harness or a flat collar.

Train at home - Can your dog sit, stay and come to you at home? If they are lacking in basic skills when they are not distracted then you have zero chance of them listening to you when they are distracted.

No pulling - If you pull them, they will pull you and they can get really good at it. Train your dog to walk on a loose lead. Practice in the backyard; remember if they cannot ‘stay’ on cue at home, then they will not ‘stay’ on cue when they are out and about. Training to walk on a loose lead is another subject in itself.

Take treats - Think of food as control, it’s about the only other thing that has a higher value then the dog or object they want. People can be cautious to use food around the behaviour that they do not want to encourage. Think of treats as a distraction, they stopped focusing on that dog to focus on you and the food – that’s what you are rewarding.

Timing is EVERYTHING! - This I cannot stress enough. You have a window when you can train, this is between the dog noticing the target but before they over react. This can be a small window for some, and knowledge in dog behaviour, body language and stress indicators helps find that window. This process is basically desensitisation. If your dog has emotionally passed this window then it’s too late, they will then learn that reactivity made them feel safe or go closer to the target. If this is difficult, ask for help from Hunter Valley Dog Training and Behaviour.

Getting Results

Training is a process. If will not resolve in a short amount of time and look out for the small improvements. If your dog has mild reactivity then good management strategies and training can greatly assist to reduce the behaviour. If you dog has moderate to severe reactivity it is best to get help from a professional – Hunter Valley Dog Training and Behaviour.